How it’s made

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Design and Illustration


The shoe designer is an artist – merging aesthetics, collection coherence, functionality and comfort into one product. Concepts are turned to creative ideas, then conveyed through sketches and illustrations, where they will be passed to the shoemakers as well as for marketing and presentation purposes.

Pattern Making


It’s the pattern maker’s job to analyze and interpret the designer’s concepts and provide the technical support necessary to create an initial prototype of the shoe. The pattern maker’s first concern is to select the perfect shoe last – the wooden chassis on which the shoe is built.

The shoe last is most often selected from available shapes, but for particular and unique designs, it is created and built from scratch. Last are sourced from a range of last manufacturers from Yikodeen newtork in Nigeria.

The pattern maker then builds a paper body on top of the wooden shoe last base to represent fully all the discrete elements of the shoe. Once set, the paper body is removed from the shoe last and set aside for the clicking phase, where the material is being cut to the desired shape before the actual product is built.

Material Sourcing


Our leather is sourced from one of the best tanneries in Kano, Nigeria. All types of leather used for production are of the best standards, textile, rubber and soling materials are all sourced from Italy and are of the best and most improved technology for high comfort, breathable and high durability.

Clicking/ Cutting

“Clicking” is the traditional name for the process of leather hand cutting – it comes from the sound of knives cutting through brass-bound pattern. During the process, the clicking artisan cuts all the leather pieces necessary to make the linings and the upper (part of the shoe sitting on top of the foot). For large production, we create knife patterns from the patterns cut by the pattern maker and we use a cutting machine to increase the process of the production.

Closing


The cut leathers are then sent to the closing department where technicians perform operations such as hole-punching, edge staining, hand sewing, binding, machine stitching and skiving. Here, the upper and lining are assembled and reinforcements are applied to the toe and heel, which are essential to make the form solid and firm.

Here the artisan is guided by binding marks, paths for the needle and thread, before giving the leather various edge treatments known as “skiving”. The different parts of the upper will be sewn together, eyelets will be inserted, and raw edges are stained. These operations require a very high degree of skill and experience with cutting and skiving tools to work the materials into a three-dimensional shoe form.

Making


The completed uppers are dispatched to the making department where they are combined with the last and a leather insole. After the insole has been attached to the plastic last, the upper is pulled over the last with a toe lasting and set lasting machine.

Lasted uppers are then attached to the sole, using cement method or chemically bonded (direct attach).

Finishing


The experienced hands of a finishing artisan addresses any remaining imperfections whilst finishing the assembled shoe. Shoes are finished by applying on the brushing wheel and shoe, for a perfect shine. Some shoes, are also sprayed with the best shoe spray, which also gives a high class, top quality shine.

QUALITY CONTROL AND PACKING


A final quality inspection is performed by QC specialists before placing them into professional shoe packaging essentials such as cotton shoe bags and shoe boxes. Only the finest crafted shoes reach the end of this meticulous process as we do not ship anything we are not completely happy with.